Sunday 20th September
Into town with the new girls on Saturday to help them get their bearings in the dense hustle and bustle of central Kumasi, and then back out again in the evening for a night on the tiles in Bantama.
Big Paul and Bernice both cried off sick, so Bridie, Hannah, Julia and I took Fresh and Charles (our friend from the neighbouring village) out. A heavy night with the usual revelry ensued drinking, chatting and even a little bit of dancing before rocking home at about two in the morning.
Sunday was therefore slow to get going, but the promise of a roast beef lunch was enough to draw me from my bed. We’d been invited over to Paul’s house (a different Paul) – a Ghanaian who made a fortune in the USA and retired back to Achiase, the village that e grew up in with his American wife. By all accounts Paul has been ploughing a lot back into the community, building the main school in Achiase and taking extra lessons for more than a handful of kids in their house in the evenings.
Through his contacts in the States they have four American volunteers staying with them who are teaching at the school for three months. Following similar logic that demands parents insist you’ll be best friends with someone’s else’s children just because they’re ‘about the same age’ it was suggested that all of us Obroni would like to get together.
Despite that it was a pleasant afternoon, and the lunch was fantastic. Made all the tastier by being nothing like anything I’ve eaten in three months in Ghana. A huge joint of crumbly slow roasted beef, mashed potatoes, veg and a thick onion gravy. Proper Sunday fare.
Sitting in Paul’s air conditioned conservatory it was almost like being at home again – his house is luxurious, by Ghanaian standards at least – soft furnishings, TVs, laptops, a fully equipped kitchen and hot showers. It was really nice to spend the afternoon there, and probably a couple of days of his generous hospitality would be great, but on reflection I’d much rather go about things our way that the American girls’.
With all the mod cons and home comforts they’re hardly experiencing the ‘real’ Africa that we get to live everyday, and sitting in the confined comfort of their walled, gated home has a sort of colonial, lord of the manner feel. Far be it from me to suggest that’s something that might appeal to the average American physche…
Monday 21st September
Today was declared a national holiday in Ghana – marking 100 years since the birth since the birth of their founding father, Kwame Nkrumah. I’ve had the chance to read up on him a little in books and newspapers over the last couple of days, and have been increasingly aware that he’s an important figure not just in the history of Ghana – but a visionary leader for the African continent as a whole, promoting the idea of a United States of Africa for many years.
He’s not universally loved in Ghana though – there are those, especially in the Ashanti region that still view him as something of a despot not forgiving him in particular for enforcing a very low fixed cocoa price in the early years of his government.
Even so he’s a character worth celebrating and is a source of great pride in Ghana, his role in early anti-colonialism in Africa leading to him being nominated the African of the Millennium by the BBC.
Tonight we made the traditional dish of fufu for dinner at my request as I wanted a go at pounding before leaving. Fufu’s a mixture of plantain and cassava that is par-boiled and then pounded repeatedly using a long pole with a flattened end until it reaches the consistency of raw pastry dough. The pounding is hard work, and it is seen as the duty of the man of the house – the time taken to get it to the right consistency being a matter of pride and something of a measure of your manhood.
My pounding wasn’t exactly exemplary – higher on enthusiasm than brute strength or technique, and in the interests of getting hungry stomachs fed I was relieved of my duties by a seventeen year old girl, Linda. No shame there then.
We also saw Small Paul briefly this morning on a flying visit back from University – seems like he’s having a great time, but he’s very much missed at Tiyah.
Tuesday 22nd September
First day on the job for both Small Ahmed and Hannah, and without Paul or Big Ahmed on hand it was left to Bridie and I to show them the ropes.
The initial signs are that my original fears about Ahmed’s suitability for the role were misplaced – he did a good job as our instigator and interpreter. It’s also just nice to get out into the field again, giving presentations in several hairdressers and convenience stores in Asoufua.
Helen came to the house before work to catch up, and with the recent upheaval it was pleasing to hear that she intends to be spending more time with Tiyah during the week – her total commitment could never be challenged, so finger’s crossed she’s able to find the time to hold good the promises.
Wednesday 23rd September
Necessity has bred a different perspective on death for most Ghanaians I meet – for want of a better phrase death becomes a way of life. But even so it still has the capacity to stun the senses for even the most hardened realist.
When Fresh came round this morning he told us that a cousin of his who lives in the Western Region had yesterday fallen into a river and drowned. He was only 21 years old. Fresh’s mother and father have gone immediately to see the family whilst Ahmed and Bernice wait for a date for the funeral.
We’ve gotten to know the young man’s junior brother quite well in the last couple of month’s because Joseph has been living with Ahmed’s family while he goes to school in Kumasi. A quiet lad without much English, but he’s a really nice guy, and for something like this to happen completely out of the blue is so cruelly, randomly, senseless that it beggars belief.
The news obviously put a somber mood on the rest of the day, but Fresh wanted to continue working. I think it helped him to be out and about with something else to occupy his mind, and in the end we got through a series of good, interactive presentations in Adankwame.
Thursday 24th September
There’s been a noticeable change in the weather in the last few days – it’s now much more like the Africa that I’d been expecting of clear blue skies, virtually no wind and very, very hot. Just in time for me to top up my ‘tan’ such as it is, so that at least when I return people might actually believe that I have been to Africa.
A good day’s work today with four community presentations in Barekese, and a meeting with the blind HIV sufferer and her mother. As the ‘care-giver’ it’s important for us to build a relationship with the mother so that we can help offer the support that the whole family really needs. In terms of transition as well it was good for us to meet them with Hannah as she’ll be the main point of contact once Bridie and I have left…
With the countdown on to Bridie’s leaving – dawn on Saturday – we went into Kumasi this evening for dinner at Queen’s Gate Restaurant with the American girls with me once again the only boy, but getting used to that.
Friday 25th September
Bridie's last day, which in turn has put my own departure next week into sharper focus - watching her emotional goodbyes just reminds me that I'll be going through exactly the same thing this time next week.
Helen came round first thing this morning to give a brief presentation to Bridie, a reference, certificate and various local gifts of cloth, and most valuable of all a speech of real heartfelt gratitude.
With the other two girls under the weather we took a final trip into Kumasi - it was quite nice just to go as the two of us, we've spent quite a lot of time together, especially in the last month. The usual rounds of internet, supermarket and lunch followed before heading back for the evening's festivities - and a cold shower. It's been maybe the hottest day since I came to Ghana and being in town wasn't all that much fun.
As usual on leaving day, Bernice cooked up a storm, fried chicken, jollof rice and soaked white beans - and we spent the evening in the compound reflecting on our time in Ghana with Big Paul, Fresh and Xhu - the Chinese engineer living in Achiase for a month or so. With me departure imminent I realise that I need to shape up in terms of the people that I need to say goodbye to, and in picking up gifts for everyone that has been so good to me.
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