Week Three

Sunday 19th July
Quite a full weekend, with a visit to the nearby beauty spot, Lake Bosumtwi, followed by an end of season Premier League game of football.

The weekend started in a typically unexpected fashion – as I’m beginning to get used to in Ghana. We met in the morning to paint the sign for Tiyah on the outside of the office, when a taxi pulled up outside the building with its engine smoking dramatically – the driver popped the bonnet to sure enough find his engine in flames. Out of nowhere eight or so guys appeared to help, and began throwing handfuls of soil onto the fire, naturally enough I got involved as well and between us we managed to tame the damage until a fire extinguishers was produced from the barbers to quell the flames.

There followed a slightly stressful couple of hours trying to meet up with our fellow travellers in Kumasi and moving on to the lake, which was less than an hour away from the centre, but still involved two tros and a taxi ride.

It was worth it when we arrived though, Bosumtwi is the largest natural lake in Ghana at seven miles across and is thought to have been created by a meteor strike. Set in lush green countryside and mountains it felt like a million miles away from downtown Kumasi rather than about 30ks.

After a couple of weeks roughing it, the resort we chose came as an absolute luxury, although it wasn’t too expensive. Lake Point resort is made up of individual huts built onto a hillside and with a private ‘beach’ out front. After what we’ve been getting used to they were a real treat. It was also good to catch up with the other Brits from our orientation week, and enjoy a bit of chat in English, although unfortunately some of the younger guys aren’t quite loving their placements as much as we are.

A few Gulders later and Duncan made a triumphant entry, escorted into the hotel by two armed policemen who had been officiating at the sports tournament D had been attending all week. With a big entrance, and a group of impressed Obroni girls to show off to, the cops got quite excited and enjoyed being the centre of attention and posing for pictures. Felt really relaxed for the first time in a while that evening, staying up late and sinking a few cold beers.

On Saturday we spent a couple of hours lounging by the lakeside, and pretty soon most of us agreed another night at the lodge was in order – but taking the cheaper option and staying in a dorm this time. After a short stroll the rest of the afternoon was spent lounging around and I worked on my first bout of African sunburn.

The lodge was fantastic, but the shine was taken off a little by the Basil Fawlty-esque Austrian owner – a large lady with a face like a big of spanners, and a permanent attitude. She managed to embarrass all of by accusing the sweet girl who waitressed and ran the bar of stealing form her in front of all of us. I don’t know how the poor girl wasn’t in tears.

A similar night in the bar followed, although this time we were joined at dinner by a million and one midges which managed to get everywhere including the food. Considering we’d been warned severely about the mossies at Bosumtwi because of the stagnant water we all seem to have got off fairly lightly, although for some inexplicable reason they are always drawn to my feet – not something that I’d really recommend in this hot weather!

Sunday was another scorcher, but the disappointment at having to leave our tranquil hideaway was abated by the afternoon at the footy. One of the local teams in Kumasi, Asante Kotoko were in with a chance of winning the league coming into the final game of the season just one point behind the leaders, their rivals from Accra. I’ve decided to adopt Kotoko as my team (red and white, and they play in Kumasi), and to add a little extra spice they were playing in a local derby against King Faisal. Duncan & I bought the tickets, the cheapest on offer at 3 Cedi for a title decider!

We took Fresh and Enoch from our host family to the match, and followed pre-match tradition by indulging in a couple of beers and some street food before the game – although it was fried rice eaten with our hands rather than a dirty burger this time.

The stadium was impressive, having been built for the 2008 African Cup of Nations, but I was a little disappointed by the size of the crowd – probably under 2/3 full for such an important game. However those that were there gave it plenty in terms of noise, colour and entertainment. The game itself was pretty good, Faisal twice leading before a late equaliser made it 2-2… not enough to win Kotoko the league to the disappointment of the crowd. Overall the standard and pace of the game was good, especially considering the weather.

I picked up bonus points with the locals, picking up plenty of shouts of ‘fabulous’ and handshakes for wearing the Kotoko shirt that I picked up before the match.


Monday 20th July
A quiet day was interrupted with more drama when out of the blue the water pipe we use for washing clothes and dishes outside in the courtyard exploded sending up a fountain as high as the house, which kept firing until we managed to find some friendly neighbours to help stem the pipe, only for it to go again an hour or so later… it’s back under semi control at the moment, but I wouldn’t rule out a third soaking of the day yet. At least we’re not in a drought!

The office computer is finally fixed for the first time since I’ve been here, so we’re able to start on a backlog of admin and reports that need working up. As an NGO we need to keep the Ghana Aids Commission informed of our activities. It also meant we were able to watch the DVD that I brought over from the Terrance Higgins Trust in Nottingham. Two full weeks into the trip and it was the first time I’d really thought about home – the DVD contained loads of shots of Nottingham City Centre, Trent Bridge and the City Ground… giving me just a few pangs for home!

Dad texted in the afternoon so say we’d won the second test in the Ashes to go 1-0 up, news that I was delighted to pass on to Bridie our resident Aussie. Having also been having pangs about missing the cricket, it’s going to need a big DVD session when I get back to catch up.

…Drenching number three duly arrived after dinner when the plumber came to look at the pipe and released the pressure again. We’ve left the pipe held in place by a precarious combination of breeze blocks and the barbell until a new one can be fitted tomorrow.


Tuesday 21st July
A fairly quiet day, so a short list of things I’m missing from home (friends and family apart); cheese, marmite, cricket, fantasy cricket, sausages, poker, proper bread, easy internet access, power showers, running at the gym, transfer gossip, the morning papers, gin & tonic - ice and a slice…

Today we went to Amoumang for community presentations, and just got through a group discussion, and a calabash of Pito wine (made from fermented corn, a tasting a like flat, vinegary cider), when the rain came putting an end to the day’s work. We spent 45 minutes waiting for a tro back, sheltering from the rain and watching boys playing draughts at breakneck speed.

Had a couple of hours sleep in the early evening as for the first time I was feeling a bit unwell, and a slow evening was noted by Big Paul calling me up to his to show me some powdered gold that he is getting assessed for a friend tomorrow.


Wednesday 22nd July
Big Paul’s bag of powdered gold turned out to be nothing more than common or garden dust. A bit of a let down for his friend, whose grandfather always kept his jar of ‘gold’ with him…

Community work in the village of Adankwame today, including a session with a group of about 20 young men, I do enjoy the larger presentations as there’s always a bit of interaction and quite a lot of laughter, but it gets impossible to hold everyone’s attention for any length of time. The community work is great, but I’m looking forward to the challenge of two presentations to entire schools on Friday.

I’ve also started to get the feeling that I’d like to achieve a bit more – something that will leave a tangible legacy with Tiyah (I sound a bit like a heavyweight boxer talking about ‘legacy’). I’ve managed to professionalise their recording and reporting system, and plan to re-write the website, but am trying to think what else I can achieve with them.


Thursday 23rd July
We delivered a presentation to 20 teachers at the one of the schools in Barekese today, and even though we’re talking to educated (and educating) people some of them hold some pretty trenchant views when it comes to HIV, both in terms of discrimination and in particular the old thing about ‘spiritual’ HIV, which came up again today.

Even though all of the teachers speak good English the schools are very noisy places and it was quite difficult to get everything across in the large classroom we were in today – they all migrated to the back just like school kids – still I enjoyed doing some proper presenting again. Tomorrow’s a different kettle of fish though, two presentations scheduled to entire schools of 400+ pupils. Should be fun.

Big Paul provoked a bit of a heated debate on one of his favourite topics tonight – creationism vs. evolution. Even though he loves talking about it, Paul’s completely closed to conflicting views to his own in this area – much to Bridie’s frustration in particular. Even though I don’t much fancy his chances of converting any of us.


Friday 24th July
Slightly disorganised as our planned three presentations to schools today turns into sessions with just the teachers, and then back in to two presentations to entire schools, and two separate ones with the staff, but we’re getting used to being flexible.

The first session was to about 150 pupils aged 11-14, but it’s not as horrific a proposition as that would be in the UK, and despite the excitement of having us in the school they listen attentively to what we had to say on HIV and stigma. Although I’m not sure exactly how much went in. It’s not a straightforward topic for them to grasp.

Contrasting experiences at the next two schools where we talk to the teachers, in the first they were very enlightened and eager to discuss the issues, while the second highlighted the scale of the job that needs to be done as it descends into a fiery conversation. The headmaster has some shocking views about HIV claiming that it can be transmitted through touching someone ‘like an electric shock’. Ahmed was great in challenging him but it was deflating to reflect that this man is in charge of an entire school, although to be fair some of his other teachers did well to dispute his point of view as well.

I tried to get some work done in the office in the afternoon, but the kids that followed me in made it next to impossible to achieve anything, being obsessed with touching anything that I put down for more than a second. I’d close the door, but without any kind of ventilation it’s just too hot.

Excitement in the evening, a night out on the town. Bantama is the main strip in Kumasi – much like any strip of bars in a holiday resort with lots of open fronted bars, banging music and hundreds of people milling around dancing and chatting. We met up with two other volunteers, Eva from Holland and Beth from Wales, and the evening kicked off with a few beers and some palm wine at the compound. It felt great to be on a proper night out for the first time in ages. All that was missing is a few lads for some real banter, Small Paul is there – but it’s not the same as chatting to some boys from home with the language and cultural barriers. Back home at about 12.30, my latest night out in Africa.